he new Victorians quickly set about "civilizing" the wilderness. With their fine English china, brought around Cape Horn by sailing ship, they staunchly upheld the tradition of afternoon tea, and began building a city of refined architecture and cultural sophistication on the frontier. Perhaps it was this early determination to preserve a gracious way of life that has kept Victoria so traditional, so charming and so civilized to this day. A century later, Victorians are still dedicated to the city's heritage and quality of life.

trolling along the waterfront Causeway you'll see the Legislative Buildings (begun 1893), the newly restored Empress Hotel (1908), and the glass-roofed tropical conservatory of the Crystal Garden (1925). Continuing up Government Street, dozens of 19th century shop fronts line the road with many more heritage buildings in the surrounding blocks of Old Town. Bastion Square, which runs between Government Street and the Wharf Street waterfront, is lined with 19th-century buildings, including Victoria's original Court House (1889). Today, it houses the Maritime Museum and the oldest working elevator in North America. Along Wharf Street are some of the city's oldest buildings, including the original Customs House (1876) at the foot of Broughton Street.

couple of blocks north is Market Square, a restored block that includes the original Occidental Hotel, which once welcomed Klondike gold miners in 1898. Today, Market Square is a lively enclave of shops and restaurants, where you may find performing artists or a festival in the natural amphitheatre of the treed courtyard. Just up Pandora Street, you'll find Centennial Square, the site of Victoria's historic City Hall (1878), and the McPherson Theatre, originally built as the Pantages Theatre in 1914.

block away, the majestic Gate of Harmonious Interest invites you in to the oldest Chinatown in Canada. Narrow Fan Tan Alley was once known for the gambling and opium dens that lay behind its doorways. Chinatown is now beautifully restored, with exotic wares and the aroma of oriental cuisine spilling out into the bustling street.

his is only the beginning of Victoria's architectural heritage. St. Ann's Academy, built in 1871 with additions constructed in 1886 and 1909/10, was by far the largest, best equipped educational institution in the region. The chapel, added to the building, was constructed in 1858 as the first Roman Catholic Cathedral in Victoria. By 1971, the maintenance of the building exceeded the ability of the Sisters of St. Ann to find their necessary renovations. It was sold to the Provincial Capital Commission and extensive restoration finally commenced in 1996. Many of Victoria's spectacular historic churches and institutions make a wonderful heritage tour in themselves.

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